http://www.praguebeergarden.com/czech-tours Beer Travel Section en jerabec@hotmail.com Copyright 2011 2011-06-05T08:50:00+00:00 http://www.praguebeergarden.com/czech-tours/post/plzensky-prazdroj http://www.praguebeergarden.com/czech-tours/post/plzensky-prazdroj#When:09:50:50Z No other beer is more synonymous with the Czech Republic than Pilsner Urquell. This beer has not only revolutionized how beer is brewed, but is also a testament to the cultural importance of brewing today here in the Czech Republic. Brewed using 4 simple ingredients; Saaz hops, malt, sugar, and high quality water, the first batch of this legendary beer started our modern lagering process, and became a style of beer itself.  Throughout the middle ages Europeans successfully brewed a variety of beers, but in the year 1842, the brewers of the Czech city of Pilsen changed brewing history. Up until then, most beers were of the top fermented ale sort, which could easily become spoiled and contaminated by bacteria. After witnessing the ruins of contamination, the Pilsen brewers invited Josef Groll, a famous Bavarian brewer, to help solve this problem. Groll was familiar with Saaz hops, already infamous in the world of beer brewing. The city of Pilsen was blessed with incredibly soft water, another important ingredient. On October 5, 1842, the first batch of modern Pilsner was drunk. Groll used the bavarian style of lagering for his infamous first batch, which helped to solve the problem of storage and contamination which ales are prone to. With new transportation and communication developments across Europe, the popularity of Pilsner Urquell quickly spread, and the small city of Pilsen became well known for its’ golden lager and Czech Republic’s most famous product, Pilsner Urquell.There is nothing more refreshing, more enjoyable than a perfectly poured, freshly brewed Pilsner Urquell. A good Pilsner Urquell, which actually isn’t the easiest thing to find in Czech pubs, is pure bliss. To start, Pilsner Urquell (12°/4,4%) has a thick, frothy, milky white head, that sits atop a golden, deep yellow bitter pale lager. The characteristic taste is that of fresh Saaz hops, which give it a distinct bitterness unique only to Pilsner Urquell. The texture of this beer is where the magic is; as it rolls across your tongue, you’ll notice that it’s a smooth, weighty liquid that fluidly fills your mouth, without creating a heaviness. Having a refined texture, the strength is not in the body but in the complexity of flavor. The bitterness isn’t overwhelming, but only intensifies as you swallow, hitting the top of your mouth. From the beginning to the end your tongue experiences a variety of evolving flavors from a hint of sweetness at its tip, to a light warm flavor of nuts mixed with caramel, and lastly to the sharp crisp bitterness that bites at the back of your mouth.Since we just had a day trip to the city of Pilsen and didn’t spend the night, we can’t specifically recommend any hotels. However, there are plenty of options which you can find at booking.com. While in the city of Pilsen, you’ll certainly want to visit the Pilsner Urquell brewery for a tour. The tour is extremely informative, fun, and ends with a glass of unfiltered Pilsen…a rare treat. The tour is over 90 minutes long, and very comprehensive; it begins with the history of Pilsner Urquell, and continues to tell how Pilsner is brewed and about the traditional lagering process. You also visit the bottling factory, the brewery itself, and lagering cellars. Since both Kozel and Gambrinus are part of the Pilsner brewery, it’s also possible to tour these breweries. There’s also a Pilsner Museum, which is located on Veleslavínova street, next to Na Parkanu, one of the Pilsner restaurants. Tours are regularly available in of course Czech, English, and German. Check their website for details and times. Pilsen is a wonderful town for other activities too. If you like cycling, or are interested in history, Pilsen has a lot to offer. Check out www.plzen.eu for more information.There are 3 Pilsner Urquell brewery restaurants: Na Spilce, U Salzmannu, and Na Parkanu. On our trip we visited 2- Na Spilce and Na Parkanu. All restaurants have roughly the same menu, and serve the same food. The atmosphere is a bit different in each, but all are traditional Czech brewery restaurants. Na Spilce is located within the brewery walls, across from where you buy tour tickets. This is a large, traditional Czech beer hall, with Pilsner, Gambrinus, and Kozel light and dark on tap. The food is great- nice and heavy, like good Czech food should be. Traditional dishes like svickova (beef in a cream sauce), goulash, and roasted pork knee are all on the menu. They serve a really nice goulash soup in a bread bowl from typical Czech brown bread, and some really tasty ‘pivni syr’ (beer cheese) which goes perfectly with Pilsner. Na Parkanu is located on Veleslavínova street, closer to the main square. This restaurant is charmingly decorated to be like a Czech beer hall in the 1930s. What makes Na Parkanu special is they are one of the only restaurants to serve unfiltered Pilsner Urquell, which is absolutely amazing. The menu here is similar to the other restaurants. They also have smažené olomoucké tvarůžky, a special cheese from the town of Oloumoc, which is fried and served with tartar sauce. A great snack to go with your beer. We noticed that the Pilsner tasted the best here, and also the prices were a bit less than at Na Spilce.Pilsen is not only a city rich in beer history, but in culture too. Pilsen has been voted a European Capital of Culture for the year 2015. This is the fourth largest city in the Czech Republic, home to about 172,000 people. First mentioned as a castle in the year 976, Pilsen has played a significant role in Czech history. During the Austro-Hungarian years, Pilsen was built up as an industrial city. At the end of WW II, Pilsen was liberated by the Americans, a fact that was hidden by Communist until 1989, when it was officially acknowledged. Home to the Pilsner Urquell, the famous brewery gates are possibly the most recognizable symbol of Pilsen. Czech Republic, Pilsen region, 2012-04-01T09:50:50+00:00 http://www.praguebeergarden.com/czech-tours/post/mikkeller-bar http://www.praguebeergarden.com/czech-tours/post/mikkeller-bar#When:18:33:05Z Mikkeller is not a traditional brewery in any sense; but, they still manage to keep the traditions that matter the most to beer, while being innovative enough to add something more, and as they say ‘challenge your taste buds’. Mikkeller was first started by two home-brewers, one of them being Mikkel Borg Bjergsø, who since 2007 has run Mikkeller. Now, the Mikkeller team has expanded, including some hard working individuals dedicated to creating beers that are focused simply on quality and novelty. Brewing their beer at De Proef in Belgium, the Mikkeller team creates the ideas for their beer, a task which often takes them around the world. Having grown by 125% in the past two years, Mikkeller is rapidly expanding, not only in Europe, and their burgeoning beer loving country of Denmark, but also across the Atlantic. 10% of their beer stays in Denmark, 25% is sold to the world’s largest buyer of alcohol, the state controlled Systembolaget of Sweden, and 60% goes across the pond to the U.S.A. Mikkeller often works with other breweries, and is influenced by American breweries, who they say aren’t afraid to break the rules. Brewing 76 beers in 2010, Mikkeller has set a world record for the largest variety of beers brewed by a single brewery. During our interview with Thomas Schøn (a hard working Mikkeller team member), one thing that stuck was the emphasis on quality, and the pairing of beer with food. The Mikkeller team has an ambitious task, which they’ve gotten a successful start at; to change the way we think of beer. They want beer to be thought of as a refined drink, good for pairing with food, in the same way that the best vintages of wine are reveled and painstakingly paired with the appropriate dish by a skilled sommelier. They question they ask, which is a question many beer lovers have often though of: ‘Why am I at a great, prestigious restaurant, and only have one choice of mediocre beer?’ So the Mikkeller adventure begins. Already a popular brand in the U.S.A, where they often cooperate with breweries such as Three Floyds and Stone Brewery, Mikkeller is influenced by American breweries, who they say aren’t afraid to break the rules. They were asked to specially brew the house beer for Noma, a Copenhagen restaurant specializing in local and traditional Nordic cuisine, that has also been voted the best restaurant two years in a row.  So, if given the chance, try a Mikkeller, and be ready for an adventure.Where to start….with 76 different beers brewed in 2010, the variety in what Mikkeller beers you can experience is endless. We had the chance to try a few, but, there is always something new. As they frequently change the taps at their pub, there’ll be quite a few new beers to choose from. Here is a comprehensive list, made by ratebeer.com to give you some idea. In Copenhagen, there are a variety of different hotels and price ranges to choose from. Since most of our money is spent on beer, we chose something more for the budget traveler, Hotel Saga. Hotel Saga was just fine; the rooms were small, and the whole building made you feel like you were on a ship. Breakfast is great, just what you need to get ready for a big day out, or to recuperate from a big night out. Service is friendly and helpful as well. Hotel Saga is conveniently located within a block of the train station, and a pleasant 5 minute walk from the Mikkeller pub.What isn’t there to do in Copenhagen! Beer, museums, art, and great food are all to be found in the rather small, cozy Danish capital. Be sure to check out Tivoli, a large, centrally located amusement park. If you’re there around Christmas, they turn their park into a charming Christmas village, complete with all sorts of rides, food, shops, and hot wine. As already mentioned, the world’s best restaurant is in Copenhagen; Noma. Be sure to have a look at their website first, especially their reservation policy (it’s usually booked 3 months in advance). For other things to do, have a look at www.visitcopenhagen.com.Located just behind the main train station, in the hip neighborhood of Vesterbro is the Mikkeller pub. A popular meeting spot for locals and tourists alike, this tiny, cozy pub fills up fast, and doesn’t take reservations either. With a total of 20 beers on tap, 10 brewed by Mikkeller and 10 from other noteworthy brewers, you’re sure to find quite a few to occupy your time with. In case your hungry, Mikkeller offers some simple, but tasty snacks to go with your beer, such as sausages, cheeses, and chips…all of which are top quality and good. Service is friendly, and bartenders are very informative and experienced in talking about their beer. Minimally and naturally decorated, this pub has a pleasant atmosphere and upbeat, happy crowd. And note, as stated on the door, Mikkeller is a ‘Carlsberg Free Zone’.Copenhagen is a capital city of just over 1 million in the urban area, with 1.9 million or so in the combined metropolitan area, which included the Swedish city of Malmö. Having the largest airport in Scandinavia, Copenhagen is a regional hub, and well connected to neighboring countries. Repeatedly voted as one of the cities with the highest quality of living, Copenhagen is also one of the world’s most environmentally friendly cities. For example, 36% of people living in Copenhagen cycle to work. With a great public transportation network, easily accessible bikes and bike paths, Copenhagen is easy to navigate. Mikkeller, Denmark, Copenhagen, 2012-02-11T18:33:05+00:00 http://www.praguebeergarden.com/czech-tours/post/pivovarsky-dvur-zvikov http://www.praguebeergarden.com/czech-tours/post/pivovarsky-dvur-zvikov#When:12:11:11Z Run by some experienced brewers that have a deep understanding and appreciation for beer culture, Pivovarsky Dvur Zvikov is creating excellent beers that at the same time keep the Czech beer tradition, but also add something new and innovative. Using the highest quality ingredients, precise brewing methods and advanced technology, Pivovarsky Dvur Zvikov offers visitors a chance to combine beer, nature, and history. Located in one the Czech Republic’s most scenic areas, Pivovarsky Dvur Zvikov is just a few hundred meters from the historic castle of Zvikov and the conjunction of the Otava and Vltava Rivers. Beginning in 1993, Zvikov first brewed typical Czech lagers, and naturally moved on to dark lagers. Next, they made a bit of Czech beer history, and became the first brewery to brew top fermented Belgian style beers. At first, people were apprehensive about Zvikov’s adventure into uncharted beer territory; but as you can see today, top fermented ales are becoming more and more popular, and Czech ales now compete with the world’s best. Zvikov uses a variety of technology and brewing processes. They use a typical Czech style decoction method. Beginning with mashing their barley, they create a liquid using natural enzymes. The temperature is increased step by step, and the liquid is filtered. Next, hops are added. Timing is extremely important during this step. Zvikov uses 7 different types of hops, and they even grow their own ‘Saaz’ hops, which create an intense bitterness, common to many Czech lagers. There are even some hops still growing on Zvikov’s grounds which are from the 17th century, when the brewery was located in Zvikov castle. The brewing process continues, along with adding wort, cooling down the liquid, adding more water and oxygen, until finally you’re at the fermentation stage. An 11° beer takes 60 days to lager, and a 13° beer takes 90 days. The longest fermentation is Zvikov’s 26° ‘Golden Swan’ which lagers for 3 months, and then rests in a cellar for 12- 14 months. After the fermentation, the beer starts to lager, where fermentation continues, carbonation is added, as well as more sediments. Zvikov uses 3 different kinds of yeast for their beer; one for a typical Czech lager, a different for a wheat beer, and another variety for their IPAs and stouts. For their IPAs, they use American hops, and uniquely enough, they grow their own yeast. All of Zvikov’s beers are unfiltered and unpasteurized. Pale Ale, pale ale - 15° Rarasek Zazvor, ginger flavored wheat beer - 11° Tmavy Special, dark lager special - 13° Kralovska Zlata Labut Polotmavy extra special, Amber beer extra special - 26° Rarasek Cerveny-Maliny, unfiltered raspberry lager - 11° Zlata Labut Svetla, unfiltered raspberry lager - 11° Pivovarsky Dvur Zvikov is also a convenient and cozy hotel with 15 rooms. The rooms are clean, simple, have a private bathroom, TV, and wifi. There are special rates for children, pets are welcome, and they can help you arrange outdoor excursions and sporting events. There are also 2 fully equipped conference rooms, and they can host company events and family celebrations, such as weddings, as well. For a small fee they serve breakfast from 8-10. The hotel staff was extremely helpful, kind, and pleasant on our visit.With one of the Czech Republic’s most beautiful castles, scenic hiking and cycling trails, and amazing beer- you can’t go wrong visiting Zvikov. Also, you don’t have to go on a tour- you simply pay an entrance fee and you’re free to roam around enjoy the views at your own pace. Zvikov castle, which is perched above where the Otava and Vltava rivers meet, was most likely founded in the 13th century, at the end of King Premysl Otakar I rule. During the middle ages Zvikov continued to be strategically important to Czech nobility. Charles IV renovated this castle, and here the crown jewels were stored during the construction of Karlsteijn. After this, the castle lost some of its distinction, and changed often between the noble families of the Rozmberks and Svamberks. Beer brewing began long ago within the castle walls, and was highly valued. It’s even said that the town executioner was paid in barrels of beer if he delivered a good execution. During the Hussite wars, Zvikov was besieged by the Taborites, but was never captured. Even during the Thirty Years War, Zvikov’s excellent fortification system enabled the defenders to resist aggression. However, during the 1600’s, the castle was sacked. Since then, noble families have continuously renovated and protected the castle, which explains its excellent condition today.  The forests around Zvikov are full of well marked hiking and cycling trails. The area is quite rugged, with a dense variety of trees, and some of the trails can be quite challenging. We’d recommend buying a hiking/cycling map of the region before you begin your journey. If you need to rent bicycles, ask at the reception, and they’ll direct you to a person in the village who rents bikes. Not far from the Castle Zvikov is another famous castle, Orlik. Getting there by bike is possible, and if you’re an adventurous hiker, it’s also feasible….but there is a quicker, more scenic way to travel- boat. A few times a day, a boat travels between the two castles; you can find the times at the ticket booth to the castle. Not far away from Zvikov is the charming little town of Pisek, which is a pleasant place to also visit. Pisek has the Czech Republic’s oldest stone bridge, dating from the 13th century, and also has a historic malt house, which was used in the middle ages for malting barely. It’s a quiet little town, with some interesting architecture, restaurants, and some cultural activities.  With 10 beers on tap, great Czech food, friendly service, and a lively atmosphere, Zvikov’s Brewery restaurant is a great place to experience the finest of Czech culture. Located just 20 minutes from the infamous castle, Pivovarsky Dvur Zvikov is renowned throughout the country for their fine food and beer, and also as a convenient and fun stop for hikers, cyclists, and other tourists. Their menu serves a wide variety of traditional Czech dishes prepared fantastically. Serving typical dishes like goulash, svickova (beef in a cream sauce), or tartasky biftek (tartar steak), as well as chicken, pork, beef, and deer- any carnivore would be happy. We tried the pork steak with barley sauce (chmel) and the confit duck leg, which were both excellent. To go with your beer, there’s quite a few tasty snacks to choose from, such as onion rings, pickled cheese, and homemade potato chips with spicy cream sauce. Our favorite were the onion rings and homemade potato chips, both of which were served with a delicious spicy cream sauce. At the time of our visit, the menu wasn’t available in English- but this wasn’t a problem. The staff were extremely helpful and friendly.  Pivovarsky Dvur Zvikov has a huge restaurant- over 100 people can sit inside. In nice weather, you can sit in their roadside summer terrace, where they’ve got large wooden tables and an area for kids to play.The town of Zvíkovské Podhradí is a tiny, quiet town in the region of south Bohemia. Surrounded by some of the most beautiful and well preserved forests in the Czech Republic, this town serves a good place to explore the hiking and bicycling trails. The main attractions are the Zvikov castle and Pivovarsky Dvur Zvikov, which are located on the northern edge of the town, close to where the Otava and Vltava rivers meet. There’s also another large hotel, with a sports center and restaurant, a few other pensions, and at least one more pub in the town. Zlatá labuť, Czech Republic, South Bohemia, 2011-08-14T12:11:11+00:00 http://www.praguebeergarden.com/czech-tours/post/kocour-pivovar-varnsdorf http://www.praguebeergarden.com/czech-tours/post/kocour-pivovar-varnsdorf#When:08:50:00Z Kocour has set out with an ambitious task; in the land of golden lager, among hundreds of years of brewing history, and for people whose traditional tastes are clearly defined, Kocour is creating some of the most innovative, unique, and internationally influenced beers in the Czech Republic. Our taste buds first noticed them a few years ago, and this Spring, we had the opportunity to visit this ground breaking brewery. Kocour (which means ‘tomcat’ in Czech) started in 2007, by a few individuals whose beer tastes have been influenced by microbrew culture in the States and other European countries. Lead by Mr. Honza Kocka, the creative engine behind this operation, Kocour has rapidly expanded from brewing 300 hectoliters in their first year, to 1000 in 2010. Located on the outskirts of Varnsdorf on the German border, Kocour’s brewery is in an old ceramics factory, that’s been converted to hold a huge restaurant, a developing brewery, and a concert/banquet hall. Using a variety of different brewing methods, Kocour has laid claim to ales and special brews for Czech residents, and is also getting some international fame. Kocour brews typical pilsners, using the traditional decoction method, and for their tasty ales, uses a fusion method, were the temperature is increased step by step. Brewing both top and bottom fermented beers, Kocour uses a large variety of yeast as well, and some come all the way from the States. So, if you’re looking for something different, and something delicious, look for the yellow tomcat logo.Kocour is a fun, lively place to visit; they have a great restaurant, with 15 beers on tap, and throughout the year, they host beer themed festivals. With everything from wheat beers to fruit flavored porters to stouts and most importantly their impressive ales, the variety is outstanding. In Prague, you can find Kocour at some of the best pubs, like Zly Casy, Kulovy Blesk, Merenda, and if you’d like to buy bottles to take home, try Pivni Rozmanitost on Husitska street in Zizkov. These are some of the beers that we had the opportunity to try on our visit: V3 Rauchbier, amber special lager - 14° Ken, Scottish ale - 15° Samuraj IPA, IPA - 14° Quarterback, double IPA - 19° Kocour Tokaj, amber lager special - 14° Kocour Sumeček, American pale ale - 11° Kocour Lezak, pale lager - 12° Currently, there aren’t many hotel options in Varnsdorf. However, in the near future, Kocour will be offering there own, unique accommodation located right at their brewery. At the time of our visit, the best option was Hotel Atrium, which was also an easy and convenient walk (15 minutes) from the train station. Hotel Atrium is centrally located within Varnsdorf, and was pleasant and clean. Service was friendly, and breakfast was included. However, the price was a bit much, for a 3 star hotel. There are a few other pensions in Varnsdorf, but contacting them is a bit of a challenge. From Hotel Atrium, Kocour Brewery is about a 20-30 minute walk.Of course, drinking some fine brew will be your main activity at Kocour. But, if you’re a nature enthusiast, the area around Varnsdorf has so much to offer in terms of beauty and outdoor activities. Located roughly 15 km to the West, is one of the Czech Republic’s most esteemed national parks, Cesky Svycarsko. This area is full of well marked and wonderful trails for hiking and bicycling. Since Cesky Svycarsko is only 15 km. West of Varnsdorf, it’s possible to bike directly there through the towns of Rybniste and Krasna Lipa. There’s also a train that goes from Varnsdorf to Rybniste. To enter the park from the Eastern side and move West, consider going through Hrensko, a picturesque village on the German border. It’s also possible to go from Decin to Varnsdorf by train, which takes just under 2 hours. Kocour is an active place, with quite a few entertaining events to go to. They have a few great festivals every year- including the one we visited, which was themed around smoke for the 30 of April’s witch burning tradition, ‘Kocouri Kour’. So, check Kocour or Prague BeerGarden for current updates on events. Currently, Kocour also hosts company events, like team building, dinners, or other celebrations. The old ceramic factory has given them a lot of space, and they have plans on expanding even more and including activities centered around beer tourism.In 2010, Kocour finished the reconstruction of their new restaurant. With 15 beers on tap, you’ll certainly find a few beers that fit your tastes, and you’ll need some food to minimize any negative effects the next day. Serving a typical Czech menu with some internationally inspired dishes, Kocour offers great food to wash down with your beer. Their interior is spacious, and with a new, more stylish pub atmosphere. Seating 140 people indoors, 80 on their large terrace, and 120 in their indoor arena, there’s certainly enough space to enjoy some great beer.Varnsdorf is a sleepy, quiet little town in the very northern tip of the Czech Republic, directly on the border with Germany. The countryside here is beautiful, and a perfect place to do some nature tourism as well as drink great beer. Cesky Syvcarsko is close by, which is a great place for hiking, and one of the most famous Czech parks and protected forest areas. If you’re into cycling, this area is full of paths. Varnsdorf has a few little pubs around, shops, but in general is a pretty calm little town. Kocour, Czech Republic, Liberec region, 2011-06-05T08:50:00+00:00 http://www.praguebeergarden.com/czech-tours/post/purkmistr-brewery http://www.praguebeergarden.com/czech-tours/post/purkmistr-brewery#When:09:14:47Z The history of Purkmister brewery goes back a long way. Beginning in the year 1341, Purkmistr was first brewed in the town of Domazlice in the Sumava Region of the Czech Republic. Therefore, this beer was first called ‘Domazlice’, and this brewery in Domazlice is the oldest in Bohemia. In the more recent past, this brewery fell under hard times, and greatly deteriorated. In 1996 Purkmistr moved to Cernice, a suburb of Pilsen, and began to build what you can experience today- arguably some of the Czech Republic’s best beer, in a top class facility that promotes beer tourism. Today, Purkmistr still uses traditional Czech recipes. The high quality of the ingredients are extremely important, and you can easily taste this in your beer. Several different types of the highest quality malted barley, and the infamous hops from the Zatec region, are normally used in their beer. Their brewing process also calls for soft Pilsen water, which has been an important ingredient in making Pilsner Urquell famous for over a century and a half. Purkmistr uses a traditional process and a 2-3 mash technique. One batch takes 12 hours. The next step happens in the brewery cellars. Here, the main fermentation takes place in open fermentation vats for 7-9 days. During this phase, alcohol forms, and carbon dioxide is released. After this, yeast settles in the bottom of the vats and the beer is pumped into 13 lager tanks, where it ‘lagers’ for one month. This phase can be longer for speciality beers. Purkmister’s brewing process uses 2 to 3 types of Zatec hops. The most important of these hops is ‘Zatecky polorany cervenak’ (Zatec semi-precocious red) a variety which is more than 500 years old. To ensure the optimal color and flavor of individual types of beer, the malts are mixed in precisely balanced proportions. All beer is brewed on the premises, and even in the restaurant. In the back of the restaurant, there are 2 large copper mashers, which are currently used.All Purkmistr beer is unfiltered and unpasteurised- which allows the beer to keep all of its natural nutrients. This gives each beer that extremely ‘fresh’ taste, making it unique among other types of Pilsner. You’ll also notice that Purkmistr beers are all slightly cloudy, and less clear than other beers- again, this is because they aren’t pasteurized or filtered. This beer is even ‘healthy’; it contains high levels of vitamins and nutrients, including vitamin B complex, so drink up! These are the beers we got to try on our visit: Purkmistr světlý ležák, pale lager - 12° Purkmistr tmavý ležák, dark lager - 12° Purkmistr polotmavý ležák, semi-dark lager - 12° Purkmistr pšeničné pivo, wheat beer - 12° Purkmistr višňový speciál, cherry special lager - 12° Purkmistr capuccino speciál, capuccino special lager - 12° Purkmistr Radni, semi-dark special lager - 12° Purkmistr dynove speciál, pumpkin special lager - 12°  Purkmistr is a large complex, centering around a top quality brewery, which includes a 4 star hotel, an excellent restaurant, a bowling alley, and facilities for conferences and banquets. Purkmistr is located in Selska Naves, a peaceful area a bit south of Pilsen in the suburb of Cernice. There is also the possibility to have massages, and buy different ‘relax’ packages. For example, they have a holiday package for bicyclists who also enjoy beer. Located in the center of Pilsen is the Wellness Center Gondola, where you can privately rent their sauna and whirlpool. At the hotel, secure parking is available, and LAN/WIFI internet connections. Bowling is available a good price, and up to 8 people can bowl on each of their 3 lanes.Drinking beer at Purkmistr is a must, as well as trying some fine Czech food. So, be prepared to eat and drink a lot, but save some energy and time for enjoying some other things at Purkmistr. You can also go a brewery tour, and learn a bit about beer brewing. The brewery tours, which are extremely informative, are offered in both Czech and English. During this tour, you’ll see where they make beer, as well as sample two kinds, and have a chance to try some barley, which is quite tasty. If you’d like to try some sport while drinking beer, Purkmistr has a nice bowling alley. If you want to do some more active sports, the area surrounding Purkmistr is great for cycling, just ask the reception about bike trails or renting bikes. You can also go horse riding in the area, as well as hiking. There is also a lot to do and see in Plzen. And, if you need to relax, consider going to the Gondola Wellness Center, where you can have a sauna, and relax in a whirlpool. Be sure to book this in advance- it’s quite popular. Purkmistr can also arrange massages for you, which are great and very affordable.In their restaurant, they always have on tap Svetly Lezak 12° (light beer), Tmavy 12° (dark beer), Polotmavy 12° (semi-dark), Pisar 12° (wheat) beer, and Radni 14° (a special stronger beer). On 2 taps, they have special beers, such as pumpkin, cherry, or cappuccino. These special beers might sound odd, but they are defiantly worth a try. There isn’t a brewery that does such a fantastic job of balancing unusual flavors with the best tastes of traditional beers. For a complete and current list, see their website. They also sell bottled beers in the hotel lobby. Not only can you drink fantastic beer at Purkmistr, but also eat well. As mentioned, Purkmistr restaurant has a large variety of beers on tap, so you’ll surely have an enjoyable time finding a good beer to go with your food. If you’re interested in trying all their beer, they offer ‘a flight’ which includes all of the beers available on tap. This is a unique restaurant, serving some of the best Czech cuisine Prague BeerGarden has ever tried. They have an extensive menu, and serve mainly Czech food, but also some more international dishes. Sadly, during our visit it was only possible to eat so much….but everything we ate was delicious. The soups are hearty and thick. Their ‘nakladany hermelin’ or pickled cheese is excellent, and truly authentic. The pikeperch tastes fresh. Their ‘Purkmistr Bread Burger’ is one of the best Czech creations- they’ve done an excellent job of taking an American classic, and completely turning it into something Czech, and delicious. The beef steaks are fantastic and cooked to perfection. You can try Czech specials, like goulash, svickova (beef in a cream sauce), roasted pork knee, duck, and deer. There are also a large number of vegetarian dishes, and a children’s menu. The service is great too. The waiters are friendly, pleasant, and professional. Be sure to call ahead and make reservations. This restaurant is incredibly popular among the people of Pilsen, and considering the large number of guests of the hotel, it’s quite possible that it could be full.Plzen is Czech Republic’s 4th largest city. It’s located about an hour west of Prague by car. Plzen is probably most well known as the birth place of the special beer type ‘pilsner’. Plzensky Prazdroj, the largest brewery in the Czech Republic, is located in the center of the city, brewing their world famous Pilsner Urquell. However, Plzensky Prazdroj is not the only great beer brewed in Plzen. Gambrinus, another popular Czech beer, is brewed right next door to Pilsner Urquell. Plzen has a zoo, Synagogue, historic churches, and is also home of Škoda Investment. If you’re a fan of out door sports, the area is full of great cycling paths, hiking, fishing, and horse riding. Purkmistr, Czech Republic, Pilsen region, 2010-12-19T09:14:47+00:00 http://www.praguebeergarden.com/czech-tours/post/beer-spa-chodovar http://www.praguebeergarden.com/czech-tours/post/beer-spa-chodovar#When:11:17:07Z Chodovar Brewery is a large complex, which includes Hotel U Sladka, Prave Pivni Lazne, and two restaurants, Stara Sladovna and Ve Skale, as well as buildings connected with beer production and shipping. Chodovar’s Brewery has a long and rich history. The oldest written document that tells of Chodovar’s beginning is in 1573, but a brewery existed before this. Long long ago, in the 12th century, there was a small, local castle, and these people carved cellars in the granite rock for beer brewing. As the legend goes, a labrador dog named Albi found a spring, with fresh mineral water, and this water was then used by this small local castle to brew beer. These ancient cellars, carved in the granite rock beneath the brewery, are still used today. In 1322, the Cheb region, which includes today’s Chodova Plana, was annexed to the Czech kingdom. With this annexation, the little castle lost importance, and gradually fell to ruin. However, this rocky area proved to be inspirational to beer breweries, and the aristocratic family Sliks started a brewery here in 1573. Beer production was quite successful. The oldest document about the volume of beer production is from the year 1634, and says that 1,173 hectoliters were brewed. Then, in 1749, the brewery increased its production to 2,155 hectoliters. However, in 1861 the brewery was almost completely destroyed by a huge fire. The year after the devastating fire, Earl Berchem, the owner at that time, rebuilt the brewery on top of the original rock cellars. The highest production recorded was in 1925, with 61,783 hectoliters. Even at that time, Chodovar was popular among local restaurants and inns. This amount was not exceeded till the 1960s. The history of the brewery became almost forgotten in the period after the Second World War, and the original emblem, including Albi the dog, was replaced with the emblem of the town of Chodova Plana. Since 1992, Chodovar has been owned by a group of four men, 3 of which share the same last name, Plevka. The Plevka family is also involved in running the brewery. Since 2000, Albi has returned to Chodovar’s emblem. Every year, Chodovar produces about 90 thousand hectoliters of beer, and their special mineral water. They also have their own malt house, which is quite important to their brewing process, and this house makes about 1,700 tons of malted barley. Today, Chodovar Brewery not only is a brewery, but also a beer spa. The brewery is also located on the edge of Slavkovsky Les, a beautiful nature reserve that is perfect for hiking and cycling. There are also quite a few events in the summer, including a beer festival and the European championships for oak barrel rolling.  Brewery tours are available, and quite frequently. This tour is in German and Czech, and possibly English. However, the tour is quite general, and not that detailed about the brewing process. If you can only go on a German or Czech tour, they do have a paper in English that is basically word for word what is said on the beer tour. At the end of your tour, everyone gets a glass of freshly brewed beer. Chodovar Brewery offers a variety of beer for you to try on your trip- no doubt you’ll have enough tasting to do to occupy your time. At each restaurant, a light, dark, and their 13° special is on tap, and at Stara Sladovna, there are usually a few more to try. One consistent factor we noticed in all Chodovar beer was the mineral water- you can really taste the freshness and high quality of the water in your beer.Hotel U Sladka is a large hotel, centrally located in the tiny town of Chodova Plana. Rooms are simple, clean, and have everything you need for your trip.  All rooms come with a fridge, which is stocked with beer and mineral water, all of which are very affordable. There is either a shower or bath, and TV, with standard Czech channels as well as quite a few German stations. Hotel U Sladka is one of the many buildings that make up Chodovar Brewery, which is a large part of the town. On the first floor, inside Hotel U Sladka, is the reception, a large breakfast room, the massage room, and the entrance to the beer spa, Prave Pivni Lazne. If you order a ‘hot grains pack’, you’ll venture to one part of the basement. While in another part of the basement, also directly connected to the hotel, is the beer spa. In the court yard of the Hotel and Restaurant is a nice garden. It’s a great advantage to speak either Czech or German, when staying at Hotel U Sladka, as most of the reception staff don’t speak much English. Also, during our visit, the staff that did speak English were more confusing than helpful many times.On our trip, we chose the ‘Relax I’ package, which seems to be quite popular. This package included 2 nights in Hotel U Sladka, one beer bath for two people (20 minutes), a partial massage (20 minutes), a hot grain pack (20 minutes), two meals each in Restaurant Stara Sladovna, a brewery tour, and a welcome present. The beer bath was definitely the best part. Individual or tubs for two are available. Once we entered, a kind woman instructed us to take our shoes off, and to change clothes, and wrap ourselves in a white sheet.  Then, we hopped into our bath, which was a mix of hot mineral water, beer, and some grains from the beer fermentation process.  They also gave us a small beer to sip in our bath. Not only was this extremely relaxing, but beer baths are also beneficial for your skin. Also, be sure not to shower after…depending on when your bath is, the ladies will tell you not to shower till a certain time. Don’t worry- you won’t smell like beer, and to get the most out of your bath for your skin, follow their instructions. After your beer bath, you’ll be escorted to a ‘relax room’, where you rest on lounge chairs, and are wrapped up in blankets. This is supposed to help your skin absorb all the nutrients from the bath, as well as help you relax. The partial massages were great- clearly, we had very experienced masseurs. The hot grains pack, which uses grains from the early stages of the fermentation process, was the least enjoyable of the treatments, but still done professionally.There are two excellent restaurants on the grounds of Chodovar Brewery. Both offer similar menus of hearty Czech cuisine, as well as a few international dishes. This is some top class Czech food, obviously made with quality ingredients and old, traditional recipes. Stara Sladovna is the old malthouse, that was actually used until 1860. Located right around the corner from Hotel U Sladka, this is where you eat if you have a half or whole pension. They have a variety of Chodovar beer on tap, which all tastes great with your food.  The second restaurant is Ve Skale, which when translated means ‘in the rock’, which literally describes this place. Located within the 800 year old cellars, you have the chance to dine in truly Gothic style. Ve Skale has a similar menu to Stara Sladovna, but just a different atmosphere. Included in our package was the option of either a half or full pension, and we chose the half pension. The meals are only served in restaurant Stara Sladovna, and you choose from a certain menu. Each meal includes a soup, main course, and dessert. Drinks must be paid for separately. All the soups are thick and delicious. The best dishes that we tried were the duck, dumplings and cabbage, and chicken fried in beer batter. Both dishes were excellent. We also ordered a pasta dish, which was ok- but the pasta was overcooked. However, all portions are large. For dessert, they serve typical Czech things like pancakes, ginger cake, and kolac (which is a sort of cake/pastry), all of which were very good. The service in Stara Sladovna is fine too. Chodova Plana, the mysterious little town in the western of Bohemia is one of the few places in the Czech Republic that has a real beer spa. Except for this beer spa, which is a part of the big Chodovar brewery complex, there is not much to do or see here. However, the big abandoned chateau, the missing cemetery, and the creepy old Jewish cemetery, on the hill behind the brewery, creates a feeling that everything might not be what it seems to… Chodovar, Czech Republic, Pilsen region, 2010-11-17T11:17:07+00:00