If you want a good, traditional Czech lager, then Pivovar U Bulovky must be on your list. Serving in our opinion one of Prague’s best 12° light lagers, this bustling Libeň pub isn’t only a prime place to experience Czech pub culture, but sample some fine beer. With 4 taps, they always serve their light lager (světlý ležák), and the other 3 taps feature beers such as their amber lager (polotmavý), weizenbock, or special seasonal brews. Pivovar U Bulovky is where Richter beer is brewed, and they also work on a contract basis for other Czech brewers. This pub is legendary among Praguers and has a devout following of Libeň locals, so expect all the seats to be full and make a reservation in advance.

While the beer is stellar, the cuisine is not. In the past, this pub served fine food, but on our most recent visit, the cuisine was down right boring, bland Czech pub fair. With prices higher than in your average pub, your only comfort will be the large portion sizes. Sticking with starters is not a bad idea. Service is polite, but on the slow side. Another disadvantage is this is an extremely smokey pub, and with one large room, there is no escape.

The closest tram stop is Bulovka, and normally trams 10, 24, and 3 run there. But tram routes have changed recently, so be sure to check in advance.